From cactus to catalyst
Can the prickly pear cactus help revolutionise the fashion industry? That’s the gamble of two idealistic entrepreneurs from Mexico, whose company is producing a sustainable cactus biopolymer for flexible materials which has become a promising alternative to leather and polyurethane, derived from a plant they call ‘a miracle of nature’.
Marte Cázares and Adrián López Velarde had become increasingly concerned about the environmental impact of the industry (the UN estimates1 the sector to be responsible for up to 8% of global carbon emissions). The duo set out to do something about it, using the nopal, or prickly pear – a plant so important to Mexican culture that it features on the country’s flag.
Opuntia ficus-indica, to give the cactus its botanical name, is widely used in Mexican cuisine. But Marte and Adrián suspected it might also prove an excellent biomaterial, with the potential to rival conventional plastics and leather for softness, appearance and durability.
The idea stemmed from their personal work experiences; Marte had a job in fashion, while Adrián worked in the furniture and automotive industries.
One day the pair discovered they had a shared frustration with their employers’ reluctance to consider changing manufacturing processes that could have damaging effects on environment. “I was very annoyed because I didn’t have the power to change people’s mindset,” explains Marte.
Feeling they would never get their shared concerns heard, the two friends walked away from their jobs and spent the next three years on research and development to find out how to convert cactus proteins into biopolymers that could serve as a viable substitute for petroleum-derived polymers – and a hard-wearing alternative to leather. The fundamental engineering principle was to develop technically advanced, ethical, sustainable materials without any toxic chemicals – materials which could significantly decrease the industry’s reliance on fossil-fuel-derived plastics. In September 2019, they succeeded, patenting the technology.
Under the aegis of their fledgling company Adriano Di Marti (the company name is a blend of their two first names), they launched their leather and plastic substitute, christened Desserto®, in the fashion capital of Milan the following month. Since then, thanks to its ethos of ‘responsible luxury’, Desserto® has been embraced by the numerous well-known high-street brands. Meanwhile, its sister product, Deserttex®, is used in car interiors by manufacturers including some of the most well-known names in the automotive business.
The two friends have been cheered by the warm reception their products have had – in stark contrast to their earlier experiences, when their pleas went unheard. “The fashion and automotive industries have been very interested in how we can substitute conventional plastics with our technology,” says Marte, who is based at the company’s HQ in the city of Guadalajara.
The fashion and automotive industries have been very interested in how we can substitute conventional plastics with our technology
Marte Cázares, Co-founders and Co-CEO
The cacti are grown on organic plantations in the state of Zacatecas near the borders with Aguascalientes, about four hours north of the city. “We also cultivate sustainable partnerships with local farmers, training them in cultivating, harvesting and processing techniques to boost yields, and installing innovative Agro-technology that transforms the cactus material from a basic staple to higher-value goods from sustainable and organic raw materials to biopolymers, to food, pharmaceutics, cosmetics, soil regeneration, and climate-resilient agriculture for domestic and international markets,” says Adrián López Velarde, who is based at the company’s European R&D offices in Milan, Italy.
The area between Zacatecas and Aguascalientes was chosen as the preferred growing site because this is the primary region where the cactus grows naturally, without the need for irrigation, fertiliser or herbicides. When it comes to harvest time, the main part of the cactus is left intact, enabling repeated picking from the same plant year after year. The harvested material is put into a solarium where it is dried in the sun – no additional energy such as gas or other fossil fuels required. The next step is to extract and separate the desired proteins, cellulose, hemicellulose and fibres, to create higher-value form raw materials for all the uses mentioned above.
The final step in the production line is casting, where Desserto® is given a variety of leather-like textures in a technique known as the ‘release paper process’. This process involves curing the biopolymer onto a specialised substrate made of heavy-duty, embossed paper which impresses a detailed leather-grain texture into the surface. Sappi was chosen as the partner for this stage, because it is able to produce papers simulating more than 30 different leather types, from fine-grain to heavy, lizard or crocodile patterns. Even this part of the process is environmentally friendly: the paper is peeled away at the end for reuse.
Adriano Di Marti opened its second premises in Milan in 2022 (this is where Adrián is now based) and has already enabled its third production center in China, which will give it the ability to forge more international partnerships and give its products a broader reach. Its cluster of awards (including the Green Product Award, the MCFW Sustainable Fashion Award, the PETA Compassionate Business Award and the Good Design Award) shows just how fast its products are gaining traction.
It just goes to show that all companies, from the largest global brands to niche independent enterprises, can benefit from experimenting with non-traditional materials that are kinder to animals and the planet. Perhaps the change in mindset that Marte and Adrián dreamed of is actually becoming a reality. As Marte points out, there is a huge amount of pride in elevating a plant that is so symbolic to the Mexican way of life.
Adrian points out that cactus innovation is no longer just an agricultural topic – it is a platform for regenerative industry. The future of cactus-based solutions is wildly promising, and he is proud not only to witness this transformation but to actively cooperate in it — working alongside scientists, farmers, entrepreneurs, investors and innovators who believe that nature already provides the answers – if only we are willing to look.
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